Valcuerna "Pago de Valcuerna" Rioja Crianza '22

I have been traveling to and tasting the wines of Rioja for more than 25 years, yet Alto Najerilla remains almost entirely unfamiliar territory. In fact, Valcuerna is the only producer from this part of Rioja whose wines I have tasted. The winery is located near Cordovín, a tiny village of fewer than 200 people in the foothills of the Sierra de la Demanda, along the southern edge of Rioja Alta.

Four cousins run Valcuerna: brothers José Miguel and Arturo Benés, and brothers Sergio and Adrián Benés. They represent the fifth generation of their family to grow grapes in Cordovín. The name Valcuerna comes from a historic vineyard site comprising 24 individual parcels that the family has farmed since their grandfather’s time. Today, they work roughly 42 hectares divided among an astonishing 152 parcels.

The vineyards of Alto Najerilla climb toward 700 meters, making this one of the coolest growing areas in Rioja. The combination of elevation and soils composed of ferrous clay, limestone, gypsum, and rounded river stones gives the wines wonderful freshness, acidity, and mineral character. Historically, the area was best known for its traditional Clarete wines, although it is now gaining recognition for its old vineyards of Garnacha.

The 2022 “Pago de Valcuerna” is a blend of 80 percent Tempranillo and 20 percent Garnacha from vineyards planted at approximately 660 meters. The grapes are harvested by hand, and after fermentation, the wine is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by another 12 months in concrete.

This is a highly aromatic Rioja, with notes of fresh strawberry, cherry, and red fruit compote, along with hints of balsamic herbs and licorice. The palate is medium bodied and elegant, with firm tannins, lively acidity, and a long, energetic finish. For a classic pairing drink it with grilled lamb chops.